How to chebe for hair length retention.

Look, I'm not trying to get up here and mixed-splain traditional African hair care, but natural hair influencers, and hair growth influencers in general seem to have glommed on to two very puzzling "facts" recently - water is bad for your hair, and oils and butters dry your hair out.

Chebe is getting a lot of blame for causing thinning hair nowadays, too, getting caught up in the oil and butter discourse. You know, that mix that's been used to grow hair successfully in Chad for what, millennia? Definitely can't be user error, no...

My hair is highly, HIGHLY porous (which means it absorbs water quickly, but also loses that water to evaporation quickly) and very fine (fine refers to the thickness of the hair strand itself, "thin" refers to how many grow out of your head).

Behold, the hair structure.

So, my highly porous hair means that that webbing bit in the cortex is literally full of holes. It acts like a sponge because it's structured like one. That makes my hair incredibly fragile, to the point where the ends actually disintegrate at the slightest hint of physical distress. So far, chebe butter steam treatments have been the only thing to allow my hair to retain the ends. Like, to the point where they still look blunt cut a whole month after my last trim.

I've shared the recipe I use for chebe butter a few times. Here's the process:

• This is a wash day activity, I use my Kojic acid soap to scrub my scalp, and use the extra suds to wash the strands. Obviously, this leaves you with completely saturated wet hair. Blot it a bit, but you still want your hair dripping just a little before using your products.

• I start with my scalp oil and massage for growth.

• I then use about 1/8 cup of store bought leave-in conditioner on the strands. This will obviously increase as my hair gets longer. My hair adores Cetyl/Cetearyl Alcohol... they're fatty alcohols, not drying like the Isopropyl in your medicine cabinet. They're what give your favorite conditioner the "slip" to detangle your hair.

• And then I use about the same amount of chebe butter on top of the conditioner.

• Here's where I move from the bathroom to the bedroom so I can get comfortable for the steam treatment:

  • You'll need: a steam bonnet (that's the one I have, I'm not getting paid to share that link), or heating pad long enough to wrap around your head with clips to hold it in place, a plastic shower cap or plastic bag with a headband to hold it in place, and the fuzzy cap your steam bonnet came with if applicable.

  • Put your wet, chebe-ed hair into the plastic cap or plastic bag, top with the fuzzy cap if you're using a steam bonnet, and put the steam bonnet on or wrap your heating pad around your head.

  • Choose your temperature - you want it as warm as possible without making your scalp sweat. That can take some trial and error at first.

  • Relax for at least a half-hour while you heat up all those butters and oils and resins.

  • Your hair will still be wet after the steam treatment. I don't diffuse my hair, I just tidy the part and clump the curls with one of those curl brushes before letting it air dry.

How often do I do this? Every 2-3 days. Up to once a week during flares or migraines.

Why does this work?

• Your hair needs water. That's why it gets frizzy in humid air, the cuticle is opening as wide as possible to absorb as much of the moisture as possible. Yeah, moisture. There's only one ingredient that provides "moisture" and "hydration" to your hair and skin - water. Everything else is a humectant - more commonly called a "slug" nowadays in skincare terms. That's an ingredient that does not itself contain water or provide moisture (unless you live in an extremely humid climate), but it provides a catch barrier to hold the water in your hair and keep it from evaporating out.

  • Now, if you put a humectant on dry hair... that barrier the humectant provides goes both ways. It won't let the water in, either. That's why so many people think that oils and butters are drying out their hair... they're putting it on dry hair and expecting it to "moisturize."

• I think we all know what heat does to oils and butters... and water, for that matter. Heating these ingredients puts them into the best state for your hair to fully absorb both the moisture and the oils and butters, all of them can get past the cuticle and fill up all those sponge holes in the cortex. Then, when your hair returns to room temperature, so do the oils and butters... now your hair is fortified and the cuticle is sealed, it's like putting a scaffold on every strand. It took me about a month into my chebe journey to figure out the steam treatments step - without it, the butter sits on top of the strand. Fine for sealing the cuticle, but not great for filling up that cortex... and boy was my hair greasy. That was new for me, my hair positively inhales oils.

And here's a bonus tip - wear silk sleep bonnets, not polyester satin (again, not paid for that link, I just like the brand). There's a huge, huge difference you'll see in your hair. And yes, wear a bonnet even if you have silk pillowcases - I've been sleeping on satin pillowcases for over a decade, and can attest that that's more for your skin than your hair.

That's me in my steam bonnet, which makes me feel like one of the Egyptian soldiers in Stargate (1994), but extra fabulous... which is pretty on point for Stargate, tbh.